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This is specifically a question regarding the 1/35 Chinook that I'm working on, but I figured that I'd post it here since it kind of spans to all types of models, more specifically A/C. I have a very poor fit in the fuse 1/2's and end up w/ a gap probably about 1-1.5mm wide. I can squeeze the 1/2's together, but I'm afraid that when I glue it, it's just going to pop back out. This model has decent recessed panel line and rivet detail, so I don't really want to putty and sand. Especially since there are rivet lines that run right down the edge of the seam on both 1/2's. It would be very hard, tedious, and time consuming to try filling the gap w/ superglue (not to mention, I'm concerned that the seam would pop out anyway...) ... Soooo, what's the best solution??? I'm up for entertaining pretty much anything as long as it doesn't involved me visiting a local gypsy or a palm reader. I think I remember Fermis filling a gap with shims of sheet styrene, but I'm sitting here at a loss ... Please shoot this one full of ideas and how-to's for me .... sure could use the help. Thanks in advance....
"If you're not scratching ... you're not trying!" WIP 1/35 Trumpeter CH-47D Chinook 1/35 Academy OH-58D Kiowa Warrior 1/48 Revell F-117 Nighthawk Stealth Fighter 1/35 Trumpeter M1-A1 Abrams 1/16 Alpine USMC .50cal Sniper
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Not sure what the fit looks like or how the access is to the interior Scott but if you can squeeze the the 2 halves together thats half the battle . If you can get access to the inside of the seam lay some super glue on it . Get things ready so that while one hand is squeezing the halves together you can dip a hobby knife edge into a puddle of super glue an and apply the glue exactly into the seam . Capilary action will cause it to flow a short distance . If you have any accelerator apply that while holding the halves together . On the outside of the seam you could putty it and clean up the excess with finger nail polish remover , ascetone based , it wont affect the plastic , that idea is from Airmaster (Rand) and he got it from Swanny . Here's the link........ Swanny Models
"Have Donuts Wont Share"
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Chas, This is an easy fix as long as your careful and have a good steady hand. First take some sprue and a candle and stretch it to the length and width of the gaps and cut it accordingly to gaps sizes. When you have the correct lengths and widths press them into the gaps and glue them in place and let glue dry. Next take 400 or 600 grit sandpaper and lightly sand them flush. If you still see gaps repeat the process again until all gaps are filled and lightly sanded flush. Start with some 400 grit and switch to 600 sanding lightly until it looks right to you. Now apply some putty and do as Shell suggested with nail polish remover as this will fill in any small gaps you missed and those you cant see without magnifying them. This way you can still save the detail and do very little rescribing. This can also be done by shaving slivers of plastic off the sprue and using those to fill your gaps. See Swanny's web site for how to use this method with nail polish remover. Swanny's Seam RepairHope this helps.
Rand Over 30 years experience as a model hobbyist. Completed! Mongram 1:48 F-4J Phantom II VMFA-333 AJ201 Marines MiG Killer. WIP: Monogram Pro Modeler 1:48 F-86D Dog Sabre. 
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camo junkie wrote:there is always that proweld thing i keep talking about!  Ditto, and Tenax 7 will also work.
Rand Over 30 years experience as a model hobbyist. Completed! Mongram 1:48 F-4J Phantom II VMFA-333 AJ201 Marines MiG Killer. WIP: Monogram Pro Modeler 1:48 F-86D Dog Sabre.
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Might just have to finally break down and try one of Tom's methods ... but I've made it this far don't exactly the opposite of everything he does!!!! RRrrrr..... HAHAHAHAH!!! Thanks for all the ideas guys. I'll try to take some pictures of how poorly this thing fits. One of the big problems that Carl brought up is that I will not have access to the inside of the seam. Whereas in a normal fuse 1/2 you do have access, this model uses a "floor" plate and a "ceiling" plate. These conveniently cover the seam on the inside. I've got a solution in mind and I think it'll work (kind-of a combination of all the above, plus some), but it's going to take time, patience, a lot of sanding, and a lot of dry-fitting. ... oh lordy ...
"If you're not scratching ... you're not trying!" WIP 1/35 Trumpeter CH-47D Chinook 1/35 Academy OH-58D Kiowa Warrior 1/48 Revell F-117 Nighthawk Stealth Fighter 1/35 Trumpeter M1-A1 Abrams 1/16 Alpine USMC .50cal Sniper
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No one suggested duct tape??!?!?  lol I think ur best bet would be a combo of the proweld and the styrene shims- should all get fused into one
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Thanks Chris ... you're not trying to sabotage my contest build, ARE you?? :) The only reservation that I have about using the pro-weld is that I don't want to distort the palstic on the fuse 1/2's. I mean there's rivet detail RIGHT ON THE EDGE. But I think that what I'm going to do is glue in a short running "tab" in the inside of the seams (kind-of like what you would use to reinforce a seam line) so that the shims have something to sit on ... and then go from there. I'm going to work very slowly to join the 1/2's together in short sections. Working about a 1/4"-1/2" at a time just to make sure that it gets joined the way I want it. Thanks again for all the comments. If anyone else has something to add, please do!
"If you're not scratching ... you're not trying!" WIP 1/35 Trumpeter CH-47D Chinook 1/35 Academy OH-58D Kiowa Warrior 1/48 Revell F-117 Nighthawk Stealth Fighter 1/35 Trumpeter M1-A1 Abrams 1/16 Alpine USMC .50cal Sniper
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I'm fresh out of ideas. If you can post some pics it would give us a better perspective on the problem.
Rand Over 30 years experience as a model hobbyist. Completed! Mongram 1:48 F-4J Phantom II VMFA-333 AJ201 Marines MiG Killer. WIP: Monogram Pro Modeler 1:48 F-86D Dog Sabre.
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Well if you have no access to the inside of the seam then it all has to be done from the outside , right ? If thats the case then you may have to use a strong bonding glue like pro weld and hopefully not loose to much detail . I'd get everything all pulled together , apply the glue and leave it to set up for a day B4 continueing to the next section .You know how messy a seam can get if you fiddle with it while the glue is curring . In the mean time i concure with Rand ......... PICTURES !
"Have Donuts Wont Share"
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I just clamps to hold them together (elastic bands, tape etc) and a good hot glue like Pro Weld.
If it's done 1/2 decent it won't break after. No worries about that.
The other way to do it is to add a brace to the interior (if there's room) with some .040 sheet stock to reinforce the joins with. Run a couple of pieces 1/2" wide and 2" long down the middle of the seam.
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DrewH wrote:I just clamps to hold them together (elastic bands, tape etc) and a good hot glue like Pro Weld.
If it's done 1/2 decent it won't break after. No worries about that.
The other way to do it is to add a brace to the interior (if there's room) with some .040 sheet stock to reinforce the joins with. Run a couple of pieces 1/2" wide and 2" long down the middle of the seam.
I think that I'd be more comfortable going w/ ProWeld if I could get to the inside of the seam ... but I don't know. Can you draw a fine bead w/ a bottle of ProWeld??? ... and speaking of ... Are there different types of Proweld? If so, what should I be looking for, and where's the best place to find this ... "MAGIC" stuff? (haha!) As far as gluing in sheet styrene bracing ... I think that's definitely something that I'm going to be doing. Since I don't/ won't have access to the inside of the seam while I'm trying to close'r up, I think by placing some bracing in there it will be much easier to fill the gaps (in necessary) with sheet shims. I won't have much time to work this weekend, but I'm going to be getting focused on this starting Monday. I'm going to hold off laying down any paint until I figure out just how indepth I'm going to have to get w/ this ... Thanks again for all the comments!
"If you're not scratching ... you're not trying!" WIP 1/35 Trumpeter CH-47D Chinook 1/35 Academy OH-58D Kiowa Warrior 1/48 Revell F-117 Nighthawk Stealth Fighter 1/35 Trumpeter M1-A1 Abrams 1/16 Alpine USMC .50cal Sniper
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Not that I really WANT to try it ... but if I did, where would I look for it? :)
"If you're not scratching ... you're not trying!" WIP 1/35 Trumpeter CH-47D Chinook 1/35 Academy OH-58D Kiowa Warrior 1/48 Revell F-117 Nighthawk Stealth Fighter 1/35 Trumpeter M1-A1 Abrams 1/16 Alpine USMC .50cal Sniper
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Proweld, Tenax, Tamiya extra thin are all the same base compound. Tamiya just adds some slower evaporating plasticizers to theirs to make it smell nice.
You want the proweld in the white or orange bottle - deffinantly not the blue jar!
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Pro Weld at Sprue Brothers ........$3.99
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Good stuff!!  Been using it on most of my builds & yeah, it works!!
1/48 AccMin SBD-1 75% done 1/700 Trumpy Hornet 30% done 1/350 USS Ranger (scratchbuild) WIP 
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^^^Oh god not the blue jar!! Not the blue jar!!!!! ...what's the blue jar???
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psstoff995 wrote:^^^Oh god not the blue jar!! Not the blue jar!!!!! ...what's the blue jar??? Was wondering that myself Chris ..............???? But i'm to lazy to go look it up . 
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Hippy Ed wrote:Good stuff!! Been using it on most of my builds & yeah, it works!! it is isnt it ed...guess they'll never know...but it's ok, more for us! 
"an idea is only a good as the person who thinks of it and only as brilliant as the person who makes it"    
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camo junkie wrote:Hippy Ed wrote:Good stuff!! Been using it on most of my builds & yeah, it works!! it is isnt it ed...guess they'll never know...but it's ok, more for us! You gots dat right friend!!
1/48 AccMin SBD-1 75% done 1/700 Trumpy Hornet 30% done 1/350 USS Ranger (scratchbuild) WIP
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modelchasm wrote: Can you draw a fine bead w/ a bottle of ProWeld???
Yes you can with a touch'n'flow. It is liquid enough that capillary action will pull it down the seam and seal it. I do this with Tenax all the time when I need a good solid bond. Come on man, you are a Master! You can do this!
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