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So I've always just used the regular Alumilte stuff at was available from my local Hobby Lobby. Got decent results, but not great as it only has a pot life of like 90 sec. I'm ready to get something with a little longer pot life (7 mins+) to see if I can get better results. I'm looking at Smooth-cast 300 series or Alumilite's resin with a 7 min pot life. Anyone have any opinions on one versus the other ... or recommend something else? Thanks.
"If you're not scratching ... you're not trying!" WIP 1/35 Trumpeter CH-47D Chinook 1/35 Academy OH-58D Kiowa Warrior 1/48 Revell F-117 Nighthawk Stealth Fighter 1/35 Trumpeter M1-A1 Abrams 1/16 Alpine USMC .50cal Sniper
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im sure it will be just as good as the 3 min. stuff scott. if ya want a similiar/joint company is here in michigan called dascar plastics...it's where i get all my resin from. get about the same amount as alumilite but for only $25 bucks! (plus shipping of course). anyway, check 'em out and see... dascarplastics.com
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We'll do. Thanks!
"If you're not scratching ... you're not trying!" WIP 1/35 Trumpeter CH-47D Chinook 1/35 Academy OH-58D Kiowa Warrior 1/48 Revell F-117 Nighthawk Stealth Fighter 1/35 Trumpeter M1-A1 Abrams 1/16 Alpine USMC .50cal Sniper
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I use the smooth cast - it cures white so it's hard to see flaws. If you don't mix small amounts of it just right (ie perfectly) the part will be rubbery, greasy and flexible. It has too much built in mold release in my mind. Use the Smooth Cast 320. It dries rock hard with a nice tan color. It has a 3+ minitue pot life so there's enough time to do what you need. It's alot thinner and you get better detail in the long run in my mind. It's my favorite resin. I have used the alumilite and other 7 min resins - they are all about the same. I could not stand the BMF resin with the 7 min pot life. It ruined 2 molds 
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So when you're talking about the SC 320 resin and you say "thinner" are you saying that it's more like water (in consistency), making it easier to pour? Just curious. Thanks for all the info guys...
"If you're not scratching ... you're not trying!" WIP 1/35 Trumpeter CH-47D Chinook 1/35 Academy OH-58D Kiowa Warrior 1/48 Revell F-117 Nighthawk Stealth Fighter 1/35 Trumpeter M1-A1 Abrams 1/16 Alpine USMC .50cal Sniper
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Let's pretend for a moment that I don't know a thing about resin casting, which isn't that far off from the truth, but I wanted to learn how. I found this article online, but it seems kind of simplistic, yet confusing at the same time. http://www.ehow.com/how_4826999_cast-resin-figures.htmlWhat I'm looking to cast is the sniper rifles from the DML 1/35 Modern US Snipers that I finally found on Ebay. (at a rather high premium I might add) Once I get those down I'd like to experiment with figures and other sundry.
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I've been casting stuff for a good minute now, w/o the aid of pressure or vacuum just to note, and 1/35 weapons have eluded me from the start! The only way that I've been able to get even 1/2 decent casts of weapons (1/35) is to pour a little resin into the molds, seperated, and then smoosh them together. You get a lot of flash, but you learn how much to add per mold 1/2. THAT's the only way I've been able to do it. I've got a number of 1/35 weapons, mainly M-4s and a M-240B that I want to cast, but I'm waiting to get some decent resin w/ a workable pot life and then I'm going to build me a nice little vacuum chamber. If you search the net, which I did to learn everything I could about casting, you can find plenty of DIY vacuum plans/ ideas. I'm hoping to get started on it when I go home this week end ... at least getthing the parts together. Not being able to cast 1/35 weapons was one of the main reasons that I stopped working on my HMMWV build ... anyone even remember that one??? The only other way that I've read about casting small parts like that is to use centrifical force. The idea is to pour resin into the mold, suspend it by a string, and swing it in a circle to force the resin down into the mold. Only thing about this one, working it in my mind is 1) the resin is forced down, but then again so are any bubbles that got trapped in either the resin when poured or trapped in the small voids, and 2) when the resin is forced down, if you don't have you molds secured together, you're going to end up w/ resin spackle on the walls. Don't know about yours, by my little wife would brow-beat the hell out of me!
"If you're not scratching ... you're not trying!" WIP 1/35 Trumpeter CH-47D Chinook 1/35 Academy OH-58D Kiowa Warrior 1/48 Revell F-117 Nighthawk Stealth Fighter 1/35 Trumpeter M1-A1 Abrams 1/16 Alpine USMC .50cal Sniper
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Hey if you find out how to cast those weapons let me know- I'm looking to do the same with that M-14 and that .50 cal Although I've started to notice them popping up as other manufacture's products. Tom showed me that TANK makes M14s in resin and I've seen a few other plastic .50 cals by Academy but for 1/35 plastic, that old Dragon kits' the best! And YES!! Scott I remember that dio, I figured it was something figure related that held things up. Still looking forward to that one!!
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Yea, ya do see a little more manufacturers coming out w/ stuff but DANG they're slow! I mean the M-14 has only been in service since, oh .... EVER!!!! ... Ok, since Korea/ Vietnam. But STILL! I'd REALLY like to build a pressure chamber cause I think that's REALLY where its at when it comes to casting, but I don't have the cash to get everything all at once .... compressor, pressure pot, etc. I've got my small compressor that I use for ABing, but I don't know if that would pressurize something fast enough. I've also thought about trying P-casting at low pressure w/ a pressure cooker (relief value replaced) but I've come too far in life to blow my hand off cause I'm retarded ... Chris, you want to give it a try? :) I also can't seem to find what a regular pressure cooker is rated at .... Maybe later in the future I'll save a little dough to put together a pressure set-up. That's what I really want. But a vacuum set-up would be nice to de-gas the silicone for molds and the resin before you pour it ... OOOOOoooo, and Santa ... can I have a vacu-form machine/ set-up too!!!
"If you're not scratching ... you're not trying!" WIP 1/35 Trumpeter CH-47D Chinook 1/35 Academy OH-58D Kiowa Warrior 1/48 Revell F-117 Nighthawk Stealth Fighter 1/35 Trumpeter M1-A1 Abrams 1/16 Alpine USMC .50cal Sniper
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I can hear you on casting weapons! I do it exactly as you do plus I also puor some talk into the mold ... no wait I meant talc, you know that white powder that you usally use on babys. OK, I actually talk, too: I speak to the mold praying to get a good cast. 
Klaus
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rd, do a search on youtube, you will find alot of info there and you will be able to see it directly. that aside, i promise i will try and get something out to you that might be easier to understand...but speaking of understanding, know i work ungodly hours per week and just dont have all kinds of time to do it. :( the biggest way to mold/cast 1/35 weapons is to have alot of "channels" going to different parts of the weapons in order for the resin to gather in those areas. i use alot of sq. and round styrene rod to create those.
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Thanks for adding that in Tom! I do the same thing, but I usually don't find all the problem areas until AFTER the first casting ... boo. I'll be ordering my smooth-cast stuff today. Hopefully, I can start making come castings later next week. If not, then the next.
"If you're not scratching ... you're not trying!" WIP 1/35 Trumpeter CH-47D Chinook 1/35 Academy OH-58D Kiowa Warrior 1/48 Revell F-117 Nighthawk Stealth Fighter 1/35 Trumpeter M1-A1 Abrams 1/16 Alpine USMC .50cal Sniper
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[quote=modelchasm]I usually don't find all the problem areas until AFTER the first casting ... boo. quote] of course...lol, what fun would it be if that didnt happen... 
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modelchasm wrote:So when you're talking about the SC 320 resin and you say "thinner" are you saying that it's more like water (in consistency), making it easier to pour? Just curious.
Thanks for all the info guys... Yes in essence. It flows easier to get in the little details better. One thing if you are having trouble with air bubbles at the bottom of the mold cavity - what you want to flow down - has to force the air out. create a vent in the bottom of the mold. It takes me three to four tries some times to get the vents right so I get a good cast.
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modelchasm wrote:
Chris, you want to give it a try? :)
sure no problem, I have two hands I mean... what's the second one even for?? And do you mean replacing the safety features on the pressure cooker with release valves at higher tolerances? I watched some how it's made thing on pressure cookers and I mean I wouldn't even know how to go about replacing the blow off valve with something gauged to a higher presser, and even then I'd think the blow off valve would be set out of the factory to be pretty close to matching the maximum safe pressure spectrum on that particular model cooker. Wouldn't want a BP style blowout in that thing, might lose BOTH hands!
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A painters pressure pot is better imho - and usually cheaper too. Probaly find one at a flea market or swap meet for $10. No need to modify and it's good to go with all the hookups needed. Just plug off the paint end with a simple cap.
For pressure casting what it does is force the air bubles into the center of the casting. This is only good for small air bubbles. If you have a large air bubble - you will still have the same problems.
You only need 15-20psi. No need to crank the thing to 50psi or anything like that.
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After reading tons of info, I know that converting a pressure cooker might be dangerous, but I can't find a pressure pot the size I'd like for under $75. I've looked at the quart size and its just not big enough. I think that I'd need at least a gallon if not two. If I'm going to be working w/ 7min resin, I'd like to have a pot big enough so that I can make multiple casts at once. I'd really hate to have to make only one cast at a time ... that would painfully slow. A pressure cooker's relief value isn't there to keep it from blowing up. The value plays a big part in HOW the cooker cooks. I can't find anything from the manufacturer, but I've heard that they make them to withstand pressures far greater than what you'd find in the kitchen. I read somewhere that they rate them to at least 50psi ... that's WAY more than what I'd be using. I don't think that I'd push it over 25. Maybe I'll just get one and fix it up and then take it out to the range and just see what kind of pressure I can put into it .... if anything ... it'll be fun. Besides, I've done dumber ....and I still have both my hands.
"If you're not scratching ... you're not trying!" WIP 1/35 Trumpeter CH-47D Chinook 1/35 Academy OH-58D Kiowa Warrior 1/48 Revell F-117 Nighthawk Stealth Fighter 1/35 Trumpeter M1-A1 Abrams 1/16 Alpine USMC .50cal Sniper
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Using a pressure cooker!!! Will you take video when you test it????? HAHAHAH!!!!!
"If you're not scratching ... you're not trying!" WIP 1/35 Trumpeter CH-47D Chinook 1/35 Academy OH-58D Kiowa Warrior 1/48 Revell F-117 Nighthawk Stealth Fighter 1/35 Trumpeter M1-A1 Abrams 1/16 Alpine USMC .50cal Sniper
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Nice ... let me know how that works out. Might just give that try myself.
"If you're not scratching ... you're not trying!" WIP 1/35 Trumpeter CH-47D Chinook 1/35 Academy OH-58D Kiowa Warrior 1/48 Revell F-117 Nighthawk Stealth Fighter 1/35 Trumpeter M1-A1 Abrams 1/16 Alpine USMC .50cal Sniper
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www.smooth-on.com This is where most of the guys get their resin from. This is also where all the recasters on feebay get their resin from also. There's another site that sells resin very cheap, as I need a lot, but I don't have the cash flow right now: www.uscomposites.com and www.tapplastics.com have excellent products for sale for all kinds of applications. www.alsacorp.com has killer chrome for those who want a true chrome look on plastic, or wood not just metal. www.kustomshop.com has amazing paints, but they're an automotive retailer that carries a much wider array of paint supplies at a discount. ~ Cobra Chris
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