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Rank: Advanced Member
Joined: 3/16/2009
Posts: 117
Location: Centerburg, Ohio USA
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This is the official thread. You do not have to start today but you can add your badges today. Rules are.... There are NO stinking rules!!!  ANYTHING Goes. ANY scale aircraft model, no limit on aftermarket items, no limit on the number of models entered in GB. For research see this web site: ACIG Air Combat DatabaseThis GB will begin today and end July 30th, 2011. I have 6 badges done take the one you like best. Feel free to ask questions. Badges are posted at bottom of this post. Anyone may join at anytime during the duration of this GB. Participants: 1. Air Master 1:48 Revell F-14A VF-32 Libyan MiG-23 Killer. 2. superbear 1/72 Airfix Dasault Super Myster of the IAF. 3. Hippy Ed Monogram F-4J 1/48 Mig Killer 4. fishbedj Accurate Miniatures 1/72 F-4C/D. 5. camo junkie ???? 6. Shell 1:48 Hasagawa F-86F Korean War 7. RDMoulton ???? 8. Duke Maddog 1:72 F-86 9. modelchasm A-1 Skyraider Bagged a Mig-17      
Rand Over 30 years experience as a model hobbyist. Completed! Mongram 1:48 F-4J Phantom II VMFA-333 AJ201 Marines MiG Killer. WIP: Monogram Pro Modeler 1:48 F-86D Dog Sabre.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Joined: 3/16/2009
Posts: 117
Location: Centerburg, Ohio USA
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Just a quick note. I wont be starting my entry until at least late September or early October. When my "D" Sabre is finished I will be working on a commission build I will be getting paid for. I will be building an old Monogram 1:48 F-15C for a friends son here. In the meantime I will be looking for the correct decals and maybe a few aftermarket items for the Tomcat.
Rand Over 30 years experience as a model hobbyist. Completed! Mongram 1:48 F-4J Phantom II VMFA-333 AJ201 Marines MiG Killer. WIP: Monogram Pro Modeler 1:48 F-86D Dog Sabre.
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Rank: Administration
Joined: 1/2/2009
Posts: 3,273
Location: Tekoa , Wa.
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Dang , missed this yesterday ! Those are some cool badges Rand . I jumped the gun on starting my build so i'll be posting some pics soon .
"Have Donuts Wont Share"
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Rank: Moderator
Joined: 12/31/2008
Posts: 1,276
Location: Texas, by God!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Joined: 3/16/2009
Posts: 117
Location: Centerburg, Ohio USA
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Shell wrote:Dang , missed this yesterday !
Those are some cool badges Rand .
I jumped the gun on starting my build so i'll be posting some pics soon . Thanks Shell, I'm willing to bet you will be the first one to finish. fishbed, Got your entry listed. Happy Building Guys!!!
Rand Over 30 years experience as a model hobbyist. Completed! Mongram 1:48 F-4J Phantom II VMFA-333 AJ201 Marines MiG Killer. WIP: Monogram Pro Modeler 1:48 F-86D Dog Sabre.
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Rank: Administration
Joined: 1/2/2009
Posts: 3,273
Location: Tekoa , Wa.
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Rand , who knows when i'll finish , i could get side lined  . Still have the Flanker to complete . Here's the box art  I got started on this build early . The exhaust is a 2 part assembly which leaves a nice long seam . So i replaced the kit part with "7/16 Evergreen plastic tube , then taper sanded the exhaust end of it so it would be scale thickness.   
"Have Donuts Wont Share"
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Rank: Advanced Member
Joined: 3/16/2009
Posts: 117
Location: Centerburg, Ohio USA
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Your off to a good start Shell. Looking forward to seeing more! 
Rand Over 30 years experience as a model hobbyist. Completed! Mongram 1:48 F-4J Phantom II VMFA-333 AJ201 Marines MiG Killer. WIP: Monogram Pro Modeler 1:48 F-86D Dog Sabre.
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Rank: Administration
Joined: 1/2/2009
Posts: 3,273
Location: Tekoa , Wa.
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Some detail on the i.p./ cockpit .  The gauges are hand painted and filled w/future , which doesnt show up in this pic . I added the tan lever at the left which is the parking brake . I dont know what the red "t" handle is under the i.p. but i saw it in pics and added it also. The black devices with the coiled wire at the bottom are another item i added , and i'm not sure what they are either , perhaps some kind of connection for the pilot .
"Have Donuts Wont Share"
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Rank: Moderator
Joined: 12/31/2008
Posts: 4,225
Location: Phoenix
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Rank: Moderator
Joined: 5/2/2009
Posts: 4,141
Location: Brisbane Australia
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Great work so far Shell...Cheers Mark
If I was you wife, I'd poison your tea If i was your husband I'd drink it. Winston Churchill Hobby link Australian Connection Home of the big Donut    Benchtime......... 1-350 HMS Hood 1-700 HIJMS Akagi
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Rank: Advanced Member
Joined: 3/16/2009
Posts: 117
Location: Centerburg, Ohio USA
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That office looks great. Keep it up! If you want the glass effect on dials use Future and Testors clear parts cement mixed with a few drop of water.
Rand Over 30 years experience as a model hobbyist. Completed! Mongram 1:48 F-4J Phantom II VMFA-333 AJ201 Marines MiG Killer. WIP: Monogram Pro Modeler 1:48 F-86D Dog Sabre.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Joined: 1/1/2009
Posts: 578
Location: Wisconsin, United States
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I like the cockpit Shell! I have to admit, that is my favorite part of a plane model, which is probably why I don't build many aircraft. All the other tedium tends to bog me down.
Don't expect to build up the weak by pulling down the strong.  Gentlemen, you can't fight in here! This is the War Room!
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Rank: Administration
Joined: 1/2/2009
Posts: 3,273
Location: Tekoa , Wa.
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Thanks for taking a look and for your comments guys ! Rand ..... i'm still working on getting my method of applying Future figured out . I found a good brush finally and started using my magnifying glass w/light . The naked eye method aint working any more ......... Robert ........i just got back into building aircraft and i understand your reasons for not building many of them . I'm enjoying them for now though . I'll go back to building armor when the newness of aircraft wares off eventually .
"Have Donuts Wont Share"
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Rank: Advanced Member
Joined: 3/16/2009
Posts: 117
Location: Centerburg, Ohio USA
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Shell wrote:
Rand ..... i'm still working on getting my method of applying Future figured out . I found a good brush finally and started using my magnifying glass w/light . The naked eye method aint working any more .........
White Glue and Future will also work. This is how I do mine, mixing Future with either Testors Clear Parts Cement or just plain white glue and mix with just a bit of warm water. Then just pin drop it on dials with fine tip brush.
Rand Over 30 years experience as a model hobbyist. Completed! Mongram 1:48 F-4J Phantom II VMFA-333 AJ201 Marines MiG Killer. WIP: Monogram Pro Modeler 1:48 F-86D Dog Sabre.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Joined: 8/26/2009
Posts: 1,329
Location: TEXAS ... dammit!
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Glad this one has an end date of 2011 ... I'm gonna need it!!! Nice work on the badges, Rand! ... now the dilemma ... which one to choose!!! Nice start to your Sabre, Carl!!! That pit looks SCHA-WEET!!!
"If you're not scratching ... you're not trying!" WIP 1/35 Trumpeter CH-47D Chinook 1/35 Academy OH-58D Kiowa Warrior 1/48 Revell F-117 Nighthawk Stealth Fighter 1/35 Trumpeter M1-A1 Abrams 1/16 Alpine USMC .50cal Sniper
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Rank: Administration
Joined: 1/2/2009
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Rand , ok i get it now .......never thought of mixing the 2 together but i'll give it a test application on a spare i.p. since this one is finished and glued in place . Thanks for the info ! Scott .........good to see your back and thanks for the comments !
"Have Donuts Wont Share"
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Rank: Advanced Member
Joined: 8/26/2009
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Location: TEXAS ... dammit!
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Air Master wrote:Shell wrote:
Rand ..... i'm still working on getting my method of applying Future figured out . I found a good brush finally and started using my magnifying glass w/light . The naked eye method aint working any more .........
White Glue and Future will also work. This is how I do mine, mixing Future with either Testors Clear Parts Cement or just plain white glue and mix with just a bit of warm water. Then just pin drop it on dials with fine tip brush. Don't want to knock something if its working for you ... more a curious question I guess ... But, why use the Future AND the glue? At least for me, Future applied with a pin always does the trick. I guess I'm just thinking that the mixture of Future/ glue/ water would cause it to have a tendency to run for any recesses. Like I said, just curious. You've got tons more experience than I've got so any explaination on the "why" would be great! Thanks!
"If you're not scratching ... you're not trying!" WIP 1/35 Trumpeter CH-47D Chinook 1/35 Academy OH-58D Kiowa Warrior 1/48 Revell F-117 Nighthawk Stealth Fighter 1/35 Trumpeter M1-A1 Abrams 1/16 Alpine USMC .50cal Sniper
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Rank: Advanced Member
Joined: 8/27/2009
Posts: 1,034
Location: Virginia
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Shell wrote:Some detail on the i.p./ cockpit . SOME detail!?!?! More than some lol that looks great!!! And a lot of little extra goodies, nice work on the hand painted gauges
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Rank: Administration
Joined: 1/2/2009
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Location: Tekoa , Wa.
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Thanks Chris !!! I have all of the interior parts ( cockpit, intake duct , main landing gear bay and the exhaust pipe) painted and glued in place . Hasagawa makes the intake duct in 2 pieces and that is always time consuming to get the seam filled and sanded smooth . I cut the rear of the duct off so i had easier access to the seam in the back part of the duct . I replaced the cut out section with a piece of heat shrink , it was the only thing i could think of that was flexible and thin enough to take on the oval shape of the duct and still fit in the tight area under the cockpit.  Next the fuselage halves go together !
"Have Donuts Wont Share"
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Rank: Advanced Member
Joined: 12/31/2008
Posts: 3,854
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Fine looking work Carl!
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Rank: Moderator
Joined: 12/31/2008
Posts: 4,225
Location: Phoenix
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Rank: Advanced Member
Joined: 4/30/2009
Posts: 251
Location: Galt, California
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Looking really good Shell!! Ahhh, shrink tubing Keep the pics comming!.....Harv 
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Rank: Moderator
Joined: 5/2/2009
Posts: 4,141
Location: Brisbane Australia
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Great work so far Carl....Cheers Mark
If I was you wife, I'd poison your tea If i was your husband I'd drink it. Winston Churchill Hobby link Australian Connection Home of the big Donut Benchtime......... 1-350 HMS Hood 1-700 HIJMS Akagi
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Rank: Administration
Joined: 1/2/2009
Posts: 3,273
Location: Tekoa , Wa.
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Thanks guys ! Grandad ... if an after market can make tubing why cant the model maker ??????
"Have Donuts Wont Share"
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Rank: Advanced Member
Joined: 3/16/2009
Posts: 117
Location: Centerburg, Ohio USA
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modelchasm wrote:Air Master wrote:Shell wrote:
Rand ..... i'm still working on getting my method of applying Future figured out . I found a good brush finally and started using my magnifying glass w/light . The naked eye method aint working any more .........
White Glue and Future will also work. This is how I do mine, mixing Future with either Testors Clear Parts Cement or just plain white glue and mix with just a bit of warm water. Then just pin drop it on dials with fine tip brush. Don't want to knock something if its working for you ... more a curious question I guess ... But, why use the Future AND the glue? At least for me, Future applied with a pin always does the trick. I guess I'm just thinking that the mixture of Future/ glue/ water would cause it to have a tendency to run for any recesses. Like I said, just curious. You've got tons more experience than I've got so any explaination on the "why" would be great! Thanks! My reason for suggesting white glue is that it provides for depth in the recesses of the dials and when mixed with Future it levels out while drying without leaving a depression giving a more realistic and level effect of glass over the dials. When I get a better camera I will take some pics and demonstrate this method of madness.
Rand Over 30 years experience as a model hobbyist. Completed! Mongram 1:48 F-4J Phantom II VMFA-333 AJ201 Marines MiG Killer. WIP: Monogram Pro Modeler 1:48 F-86D Dog Sabre.
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